Cusco – The Calm after the Storm – Day 5

1st January 2014

First day of waking up with no headaches since we arrived…on New Year’s Day! Given the partying and fireworks went on until 7am we expected to walk out to carnage but Cusco its street cleaners had sprinkled their magic dust. Only telltale sign was that the city had a quiet feel to it all day. Which suited us as we mostly spent the day switching hotels to the one where we met our Inca Trail group and the night desperately trying to get our backpacks to weigh in at under 3.5 kilos…

Cusco – An Explosive New Year – Day 4

31st December

After an early and shaky (altitude sickness) start, we headed to one of the churches on the square – the Templo de la Campania de Jesus. It had an intricate, gilded interior, an amazing starlit nativity scene and great views overlooking the Plaza. From there, we embraced the fact the sun was still out (a little too much given we set off without sun hats, sunscreen or water…) and got a taxi up to the Cristo Blanco. Perched high above the city, it was breathtaking (though we were actually surprised to find we could breathe better up there!). We chatted to some American boys – Aaron, Matt and Austin – who gave us a heads up about the madness of Cusco at new year and helped us find a route down. We walked all the way, via San Blas and had a (big) lunch at the several times recommended Jacks Bar. It was good. After a short-downpour rest, we headed up to the San Pedro market where everyone was out stocking up for the night ahead.

High anticipation in the air. We nursed our one drink of the night (!) – a pisco sour – on the hotel balcony, taking the obligatory new year photo and watching the square come alive…at 10pm after a quick meal nearby we headed out into the craziness. Tourists, kids, locals all collected in the square. A stage saw several bands playing Peruvian ‘classics’.

A firework free-for-all kicked off with random street vendors walking the masses selling beer + hand held rockets, firecrackers and other explosives to an increasingly drunk crowd who proceeded to let them off and throw them at each other / into the crowd – absolutely carnage! As midnight drew closer things got more crazy but we held our nerve, saw in the new year, kissed, wished our Peruvian neighbours Feliz Ano and battled our way back to the hotel through the crowds who were now circling the square on mass (and yes still letting off more fireworks). As we got into bed (with the sounds of partying all around us) we felt incredibly lucky to have experienced (and survived ;-)) such a celebration!!!

Cusco – Recovery & a friendly face – days 2-3

29th – 30th December

Arrived safely in Cusco with clear skies as we flew in to see the city nestled in the mountains at 11,000 ft above sea level. However, we soon got our first taste of the rainy season thanks to a massive downpour as we were driven into the city courtesy of a very dodgy taxi driver. After settling into our hotel on the Plaza de Armas, we found a little cafe and had our first taste of Peruvian food, Saltada (we weren’t quite ready for the guinea pig just yet). The rest of the day was mainly spent walking round the square and near streets, resting and acclimatising to the thin air. We had an early night as tomorrow we had our first tour courtesy of a friendly local…

Blue skies started our second day in Cusco with breakfast overlooking the busy main square as we waited to meet Bobbie (a friend of Ali and Charlie’s from Capel who has been living in the nearby Sacred Valley for the last 2 years). The day started by a visit to the local San Pedro market which sells everything and anything you need to live in Cusco plus a nice trade in yellow items of clothing in readiness for the new year celebrations – including hats, t-shirts, yellow thongs and g-strings!

Having sampled a fresh fruit juice from the market we then went to lunch at a nice restaurant called Cicciolina where we both had our first taste of delicious alpaca steaks. We also had our first proper drink of red wine since our arrival – though not sure this helped our altitude sickness as we were left feeling dizzier than usual – very odd.

From here Bobbie thought it would be a good idea to do some altitude training and took us up higher into the city via several fights of stairs – bumping into several of her friends along the way – to a bohemian area called San Blas which had great views of the city. Then it was back to our hotel for herbal teas before saying goodbye to our excellent host for the day.

Lima – Shape of things to come – Day 1

28th December 2013

Arrived safely in Peru after being momentary upgraded to business class and then seconds later back to cattle class followed by spending the next 12 hours stuck in the 1990s thanks to Iberia with only 3 TVs between a cabin full of people.

Still to make up for it all we have been welcomed at the hotel in Lima with a couple of free Pisco sours – we are easily pleased…