Puno – Days 12 – 14

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12th – 14th January

After a lazy day in Cusco the previous day where we said reluctant goodbyes to the Speedy Llamas, did laundry and generally chilled out, we got the 6.30am Inka Express bus to Puno. Along the way we stopped at various Inca sites including Andahuaylillas, Huaro and Canincuna both feeling a little guilty that we are now ‘ruined out’ having been spoilt the previous week. Arrived at Puno at 5, booked into our hotel off the main Plaza de Armas and met up with Andy and Ash (a couple we met on the Inca Trail) for dinner. Pisco sours all round followed by Peruvian food (steak Saltado again for Jason to keep up his daily diet of this dish).

The next day (our only full day in Puno) started with a visit to Lake Titicaca which at 3,830m above sea level is the highest navigable lake in the world.

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The people of Lake Titicaca live on the water from Islands made from reeds. We visited the islands of Uros where we got a demonstration of how the islands are made by from the lakes resources and a visit into a locals house which was very basic but soon doubled up as a shop as the lady tried to sell us some hand made crafts – we made our excuses and left!

Lake Titicaca

We left the island in a hand made reed boat to the next island where Charlie, Ash and Andy (who is stalking who here?!) started early on the beers before heading back to Puno for lunch on the main Lima steer (Punos equivalent to Oxford street but about 50 metres in length) followed by a walk round the square.

Tomorrow we are off to Bolivia and are sad to be leaving Peru behind having had a great time in this beautiful country.

The Inca Trail & Machu Picchu – Days 6 – 10

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2nd – 7th January

Day 1 – ‘Training Day’ – Sacred Valley & Ollantaytambo

Leaving early with one of g-adventures guides for the trek, Enrique, we all headed out of Cusco to our first stop at the Planeterra Weaving Project which was about 1 hours travel up in the hills and off the beaten track. Here we were greeted by a community of women who showed us round the village and introduced us to the alpacas and llamas whose wool they use for weaving which we saw before heading to the market to buy ourselves some hand made clothing (Charlie a trendy pair of alpaca leg warmers) and yet another coca tea before saying goodbye and heading to the Pisac ruins for our first taste of what was to come.

Alpacas

At the Pisac Ruins, Enrique set our first ‘training’ task to see how fit we were as a group. We had 15 minutes to reach the top of the ruins by stairs all the way to the top to be rewarded of a view of the Sacred Valley below.

Pisac Ruins

Hot and hungry we then headed in the bus to ‘Incalicious’ to get lunch and then to what would be the last roof over our heads for 3 nights at Ollantaytambo. After checking in we headed straight out to see another ruin – The Temple of the Sun – where Enrique set us another challenge to get to the top of the ruins – and we thought we were supposed to be on holiday! At the end of the day we all went for dinner together only for Charlie to get a free dinner and Pisco sour having been given pineapple twice (which Charlie hates!) on her pizza. So we decided it might not be a bad idea to carry some pineapple chunks around with us and try the same again should we run out of money at the end of our trip!

Day 2 – ‘The Easyish Day’ – Start to Wayllambama. 11km / 5 hrs

Leaving Ollantaytambo Lodge we picked up our second guide for the hike, Piero, and made our way to the start of the trail to meet our porters, all 22 of them who would basically carry all our gear, cook our food and set-up camp for the 16 of us. These guys ranged from about 20 to 60 years old and were obviously very strong given all the equipment they had to carry for the full hike when all we had were our day packs. So through passport control off we set as a group on our Inca Trail adventure.

Speedy Llamas 1

We set off at a good pace in ‘Monkey pee’ rain and were soon overtaken by our porters who were running up the mountain with massive back packs. After 4 hours of walking mainly up hill through stunning scenery and the first of many ruins we finally caught up with the porters who had prepared a welcome lunch of soup, fish with rice and pudding. As soon as we had finished they were washing the dishes, packing their packs and running again to set up camp where we would meet them later with all our tents already set-up – these guys were amazing!

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At camp ‘happy hour’ started at 5pm when we all met in the food tent for tea, pop corn and to play cards with Enrique and Piero. The game of the trek was to be ‘Llama shit!’ (think of a game of a similar name in the UK). This was followed by a 2 course meal and the daily briefing before bed by 8pm as we had an early start tomorrow.

Day 3 – ‘The Hard Day’ – Wayllambama to Paqaymayo. 12km / 6 hrs

Woken at 5am with a cup of tea by Piero and out by 5.30 so the porters could pack the sleeping bags and tents. Following porridge and pancakes we were back on the Inca trail by 6.15 am for a 2.5hr uphill hike in the warm sun to our first stop where Jason joined Stefan for an 8.45 am beer(!)

Early Beers

We polished off our snacks and the group were allowed to split to climb up the very long and steep path to Dead Womans pass (Warmiwanusca) to the highest point in our trek at 4,215m above sea level. 2 hours later and pretty much short of breath we finally arrived at the top in time for a quick pic before the heavens opened. It rained so hard that we had to break out our ponchos for the first time for the next 1.5hr descent on slippy steps and rocks to camp.

Top of dead woman's pass

After a slower ascent to the summit it was during the descent that Charlie came into her own as a mountain goat quickly jumping from step to step, willed on no doubt by the thought of lunch waiting for us at camp.

Speedy Llamas

After changing into dry clothes we were fed a meat stroganoff followed by a delicious cake from the chefs which set us up nicely for an afternoon nap. Today’s happy hour and game of cards had a twist to it as a bottle of rum was put on the table with the losers made to drink shots. After a fiercely competitive first round all the group each managed to beat Enrique and Piero and with much noise they reluctantly had their shots.

Enrique and Piero

In the next round we unfortunately found ourselves in the final two against again Enrique and Piero but with their professional reputation at risk it was with the last turn of the cards that we lost and had to drink the rum. Luckily dinner followed and rum was served again with a special Peruvian tea made with cinnamon.

Day 4 – ‘The Long Day’ – Paqaymayo to Winaywayna. 16km / 8 hrs

Woken again at 5am after a night of heavy rain we found our tents had let in water so we now all had wet and smelly sleeping bags – urgh. After a breakfast of toast and scrambled eggs we started our longest trek of the trail as lunch wasn’t for another 8 hours. The guides now had an idea of the fitness level of the group so marched us for the first two hours before a break at the top of another mountain. Following this we descended about an hour and found the cleanest ‘toilets’ we had seen on our journey as everyone had been holding out and we had never been so happy! Following our rest stop once again it was another two hour ascent into the Cloud Forest so called as you are walking through thick clouds at this altitude particularly in the wet season.

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After we regrouped at yet another summit it was time for our final challenge for the descent to camp, the so called ‘Gringo Killer’ which was nearly 1 hour of steep wet steps in the clouds (not a problem for Charlie the mountain goat) before a steady path the remainder of the way to camp via more Inca ruins. Finally after 8 hours of walking we arrived at base camp for a massive lunch which we ate in almost silence as everyone was so tired. No happy hour today though, instead Piero took us to ‘mini Machu Picchu’ where we were treated to a rainbow following the day’s heavy rain.

Winay Wayna

Following dinner we had a whip round before a presentation by Ebba and Hugo to the porters as this would be the last chance we would have to thank them for looking after us. Then it was bed at 8pm as tomorrow we had to be up at 3.30am for our final trek to reach our goal at Machu Picchu.

Day 5 – Winaywayna to Machu Picchu. 6km / 2 hrs

Woken with a shake of the tent we were quickly on our way (after a breakfast of hot chocolate and toast of course) for our final trek to Machu Picchu via The Sun Gate where the theory is you see the sun rise, however due to thick clouds we were unable to see anything so decided to carry on to Machu Picchu itself only to arrive to more clouds! with everyone disappointed our moods soon lifted with an early morning beer before the clouds rolled off the mountain to reveal the 15th century Inca City.

Macchu Pichu

So after Enrique’s final lesson about the Incas we had our final group shot and were left to explore the city on our own so lots of time for selfies! (See our Flickr pages to the left for a selection for our pics).

Speedy Llamas 2

Jason & Charlie - Macchu Picchu selfie

Having spent a couple of hours exploring the city – including a fast march to the Inca Bridge – it was finally time to complete our trek and exit the Inca Trail catching a bus down to the town where seeing so many people seemed a little weird after it just been the group of us for the last 4 days. Before we caught the (amazing) Peru Rail train back to Ollantaytambo we had time for our first meal not cooked by the porters where Jason gave a speech on behalf of the group to thank Enrique and Piero for looking after us and making our time as a group so unforgettable.

So it was with sadness but a great sense of achievement that we made our way back to Cusco where we all went out for a final meal at a Peruvian restaurant called Marcelo Batata.

Enrique and the guinea pig

We at last tried Guinea Pig (surprisingly tasty if a bit bony) and then a night cap at Paddys Pub before heading back to our hotel after being awake for nearly 21 hours. A very surreal end to an awesome trip with a great group of people.

Cusco – The Calm after the Storm – Day 5

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1st January 2014

First day of waking up with no headaches since we arrived…on New Year’s Day! Given the partying and fireworks went on until 7am we expected to walk out to carnage but Cusco its street cleaners had sprinkled their magic dust. Only telltale sign was that the city had a quiet feel to it all day. Which suited us as we mostly spent the day switching hotels to the one where we met our Inca Trail group and the night desperately trying to get our backpacks to weigh in at under 3.5 kilos…

Cusco – An Explosive New Year – Day 4

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31st December

After an early and shaky (altitude sickness) start, we headed to one of the churches on the square – the Templo de la Campania de Jesus. It had an intricate, gilded interior, an amazing starlit nativity scene and great views overlooking the Plaza. From there, we embraced the fact the sun was still out (a little too much given we set off without sun hats, sunscreen or water…) and got a taxi up to the Cristo Blanco. Perched high above the city, it was breathtaking (though we were actually surprised to find we could breathe better up there!). We chatted to some American boys – Aaron, Matt and Austin – who gave us a heads up about the madness of Cusco at new year and helped us find a route down. We walked all the way, via San Blas and had a (big) lunch at the several times recommended Jacks Bar. It was good. After a short-downpour rest, we headed up to the San Pedro market where everyone was out stocking up for the night ahead.

High anticipation in the air. We nursed our one drink of the night (!) – a pisco sour – on the hotel balcony, taking the obligatory new year photo and watching the square come alive…at 10pm after a quick meal nearby we headed out into the craziness. Tourists, kids, locals all collected in the square. A stage saw several bands playing Peruvian ‘classics’.

A firework free-for-all kicked off with random street vendors walking the masses selling beer + hand held rockets, firecrackers and other explosives to an increasingly drunk crowd who proceeded to let them off and throw them at each other / into the crowd – absolutely carnage! As midnight drew closer things got more crazy but we held our nerve, saw in the new year, kissed, wished our Peruvian neighbours Feliz Ano and battled our way back to the hotel through the crowds who were now circling the square on mass (and yes still letting off more fireworks). As we got into bed (with the sounds of partying all around us) we felt incredibly lucky to have experienced (and survived ;-)) such a celebration!!!

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Cusco – Recovery & a friendly face – days 2-3

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29th – 30th December

Arrived safely in Cusco with clear skies as we flew in to see the city nestled in the mountains at 11,000 ft above sea level. However, we soon got our first taste of the rainy season thanks to a massive downpour as we were driven into the city courtesy of a very dodgy taxi driver. After settling into our hotel on the Plaza de Armas, we found a little cafe and had our first taste of Peruvian food, Saltada (we weren’t quite ready for the guinea pig just yet). The rest of the day was mainly spent walking round the square and near streets, resting and acclimatising to the thin air. We had an early night as tomorrow we had our first tour courtesy of a friendly local…

Blue skies started our second day in Cusco with breakfast overlooking the busy main square as we waited to meet Bobbie (a friend of Ali and Charlie’s from Capel who has been living in the nearby Sacred Valley for the last 2 years). The day started by a visit to the local San Pedro market which sells everything and anything you need to live in Cusco plus a nice trade in yellow items of clothing in readiness for the new year celebrations – including hats, t-shirts, yellow thongs and g-strings!

Having sampled a fresh fruit juice from the market we then went to lunch at a nice restaurant called Cicciolina where we both had our first taste of delicious alpaca steaks. We also had our first proper drink of red wine since our arrival – though not sure this helped our altitude sickness as we were left feeling dizzier than usual – very odd.

From here Bobbie thought it would be a good idea to do some altitude training and took us up higher into the city via several fights of stairs – bumping into several of her friends along the way – to a bohemian area called San Blas which had great views of the city. Then it was back to our hotel for herbal teas before saying goodbye to our excellent host for the day.

Jason, Charlie & Bobbie

Lima – Shape of things to come – Day 1

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28th December 2013

Arrived safely in Peru after being momentary upgraded to business class and then seconds later back to cattle class followed by spending the next 12 hours stuck in the 1990s thanks to Iberia with only 3 TVs between a cabin full of people.

Still to make up for it all we have been welcomed at the hotel in Lima with a couple of free Pisco sours – we are easily pleased…

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