12th – 13th February

Having made our way speedily around the previous 5 cities in Argentina, arriving 2 days early in BA and on the advice of our new Uruguayan friend Juan Pablo de Marco (great name – should be president with a name like that), we booked ourselves on the ferry to Colonia Del Sacramento across the Rio de la Plata. The ferry terminal was super modern and spacious but both country’s passport controls were squashed in the same booth meaning the immigration officials were banging elbows as they went about their official business and the ink was still wet from our Argentinean exit stamp as we were granted entry to Uruguay.

After recent weeks spent mostly in cities, the historic town of Colonia provided a welcome change of gear as we walked in the blazing sun to the old town. It was distinctly sleepy with only a handful of people around amongst the many cafés, craft shops and abandoned vintage cars now turned pieces of art on the cobbled streets.

Leaving our B&B – Le Vrero (the 18th place we have stayed to date) – we took a short walk down the Main Street (stopping briefly for an unintentionally vast Milanesa lunch which, shock horror, we left most of), turned on up through the Plaza Mayor, meandered down side streets and took in the view from the harbour over to Buenos Aries in the distance. We then climbed the stairs of the small lighthouse on the edge of the town as the afternoon drifted by and the sun started to set.

For dinner we choose a cafe that stood out from the rest, not just for its name, El Drugstore, but also for its interior which was brightly decorated with random artwork on the walls (from the gallery just across the road) and an open kitchen. As we waited for our food we got chatting to an Columbian / Canadian couple – Mario and Laura-Lee – and spent the next 2 hours chatting about our respective trips, straining to be heard over one of the most unconvincing singers / guitarists ever (he read the words to each song from his karaoke machine whist occasionally strumming over the backing track). He even had the cheek to try and sell us his CDs which we all politely turned down. However, on the subject of tourists being singled out by locals to be pestered or sold tat, Mario gave us one word of advice when we visit Rio….we need to dress like the locals else we will receive a lot of unwelcome attention from sellers on the beach. So with 4 days to go until we arrive in Rio the big question is will Jason have time to find a suitably fine pair of skimpy speedos??

After a restless night sleep worrying about taking Mario’s advice and feeling the need for some exercise, we set off on a 5 mile round walk to the disused bull ring which was apparently only ever opened for 2 years in the early 1900’s. Upon arrival there was a big wire fence around the perimeter and big signs saying ‘Peligroso’ (Danger!) so of course, we proceeded to walk round it, found a big hole in the fence and followed a few other visitors who were climbing through to take a closer peek.

And then it was back to town for final stroll to say goodbye to Colonia wishing we could have stayed longer and seen more of Uruguay before getting the ferry back to BA.