31st December

After an early and shaky (altitude sickness) start, we headed to one of the churches on the square – the Templo de la Campania de Jesus. It had an intricate, gilded interior, an amazing starlit nativity scene and great views overlooking the Plaza. From there, we embraced the fact the sun was still out (a little too much given we set off without sun hats, sunscreen or water…) and got a taxi up to the Cristo Blanco. Perched high above the city, it was breathtaking (though we were actually surprised to find we could breathe better up there!). We chatted to some American boys – Aaron, Matt and Austin – who gave us a heads up about the madness of Cusco at new year and helped us find a route down. We walked all the way, via San Blas and had a (big) lunch at the several times recommended Jacks Bar. It was good. After a short-downpour rest, we headed up to the San Pedro market where everyone was out stocking up for the night ahead.

High anticipation in the air. We nursed our one drink of the night (!) – a pisco sour – on the hotel balcony, taking the obligatory new year photo and watching the square come alive…at 10pm after a quick meal nearby we headed out into the craziness. Tourists, kids, locals all collected in the square. A stage saw several bands playing Peruvian ‘classics’.

A firework free-for-all kicked off with random street vendors walking the masses selling beer + hand held rockets, firecrackers and other explosives to an increasingly drunk crowd who proceeded to let them off and throw them at each other / into the crowd – absolutely carnage! As midnight drew closer things got more crazy but we held our nerve, saw in the new year, kissed, wished our Peruvian neighbours Feliz Ano and battled our way back to the hotel through the crowds who were now circling the square on mass (and yes still letting off more fireworks). As we got into bed (with the sounds of partying all around us) we felt incredibly lucky to have experienced (and survived ;-)) such a celebration!!!