4th – 7th February

We checked into our hotel after walking past its tiny sign a few times on the shady back street in downtown Cordoba – Argentinas second largest city. After the random place we’d stayed at in Mendoza we were in need of a comfortable hotel with a sane owner and Lucia at the Sacha Mistol Art Hotel didn’t disappoint. The large old building belonged to Lucia’s family and had been empty for sometime before Lucia came up with her master plan and persuaded her family to let her convert the old office building into a boutique hotel. It centred itself around paintings from local artists hanging on the walls and each room had a unique mureal painted directly onto the wall – one of the best places we have stayed on our trip so far.

Our first full day in the city started with the obligatory trip to the main square, Plaza San Martin before moving quickly on to Nueva Cordoba which is situated around a long avenue with many restaurants and bars. However, being far too early for a drink we set out on a cultural tour of the area visiting the Iglesia de Los Capuchinos and spending a couple of hours in the art gallery – Museo Superior Bella Artes Evita which was equally both interesting and disturbing.

Leaving the gallery and into the soaring mid day heat we soon decided to stop for lunch finding ourselves a table inside a small cafe near the park (and, as we learned, law buildings). We had just sat down when the man on the next table on his lunch break heard our accents and asked where we were from. We said London and found out he had stayed in Finsbury Park in his teens and used to drink in the Prospect of Whitby – a pub near Jason’s office – and had visited Britain several times since on Rugby tours and with his family.

A couple of hours later, having discussed our trip and armed with recommendations of places to eat and visit we were saying our goodbyes when he unexpectedly invited us to dinner at his home the next day and gave us all his contact details. We left with a promise to email him to confirm details but while Alejandro seemed really lovely and genuine we couldn’t help but worry we were nuts to even think about going to a relative strangers home in a strange country! So, for the rest of the now rainy afternoon (we’re talking so much thunder and lightening we had to take refuge – along with a lot of the rest of the city – in the cathedral) we spent going back and forth as to whether to wimp out or go for it.

We thought that one way to help decide was to go to the restaurant he had recommended for dinner which was a short taxi ride from our hotel (we can always find a good excuse for good food!). Arriving at the San Honorito we were immediately impressed and sat down to order Salmon Ravioli (Charlie) and Beef with truffles (Jason adhering to his strict beef diet) before being invited into the downstairs cellar for a wine tasting whilst dinner was prepared. After a delicious meal, we decided to email Alejandro and confirm the dinner date…

The next day and before our evening date with destiny we had already planned a day trip in the nearby Punilla Valley. It was cheap compared to the other one day excursions we had done and we soon found out why. The lowlights as pointed out by our guide (who was actually pretty nice and who had to say everything twice as we were the only non Spanish speakers on the bus) included:
– a photo opportunity in a car park with various flag poles (apparently this spot is the centre of Argentina) followed by another photo opp next to a closed outdoor theatre
– A holiday camp for trade unionists
– A bridge that went to a town that had an Anglican Church
– Sheep
– Various mountains that apparently have great panoramic views (great if you went there but not much use when you are in the bus)
– a look through a hedge at a house where a man collects vintage cars (seriously!)

The highlights of the day were a speedy trip on a chairlift in Los Cocos and stopping for lunch. There was nothing great about the food but we shared a table with Juan Pablo, a journalist from Uruguay and Guada from Argentina, a history teacher obsessed by Henry VIII. Over lunch we had a lively conversation about the differences between our countries, the World Cup, the royal family and different ways to drink ‘Mate’. We’d been made particularly aware of Mate that morning when many of the people on our bus brought on giant flasks and a cup (or mate) and proceeded to continually pour hot water over herbs before drinking through a metal straw to sieve out the herbs. Unlike tea and coffee Mate drinkers can, and did, drink it pretty much non-stop both on and off the coach taking the flask and cup with them everywhere – this stuff must obviously taste great.

Returning back to our hotel we had one hour to get ready to go who knows where and we were admittedly a little nervous as we waited for Alejandro to pick up us. Thankfully we needn’t have worried at all. Jumping into his car we were soon heading out of town getting the locals commentary of the city (so much better than the previous 10 hours!!!) including a drive through a nice area called Barrio Cerra de las Rosas (where he grew up) and a stop at his friend the butchers to pick up some cheese and salami. We pulled up outside his house 30 minutes later to be welcomed with lots of kisses from his wife, 4 children, sister-in law and mother-in-law – all very sane and very, very friendly. Phew! What followed was a wonderful evening with plentiful wine, chorizo, black pudding, goats cheese and spare ribs (all cooked over a very impressive BBQ…well more of a complete outdoor kitchen with an open oven), gathered round an enormous family table outdoors. Everyone shared stories about their travels, meeting new people, what to do in Buenos Aires, family and how their children (all super talented and incredibly polite) were doing academically, musically and on the sports field. We learnt more about Cordoba and its free education system (La Cuidad de la Universidad) and the amazing charity work they are involved in. Plus, we even got to try, and importantly share, the perfect mate – hot water (never boiled), with a froth and a little sugar Argentina style.

After a final tour round their rugby bar (Noddy you’d love them!), a big round of goodbyes and even clutching farewell gifts and avocados for our next day bus, Alejandro refused to let us get a taxi and drove us back into town, topping it off with an insiders tour of the city by night. We stumbled back into our hostel around 2am, totally overwhelmed by our impromptu evening and much to the relief of Lucia who was keeping an eye out for our return!

We feel incredibly lucky that from a random stop in a cafe we ended up spending time with some amazing people and experiencing real Argentinean family hospitality. We were sad to say goodbye to our new friends but hope we’ll get to repay the favour sometime soon!